Walking Along The River.
San Antonio is one of my favorite places I have visited on this trip. If you're surprised, I am too. I had a feeling I was going to like it, I just wasn't sure how much. San Antonio is beautiful with lots to do and has already found its flow, if that makes sense. It moves slowly but still hustles like a city, which is really refreshing, and I got the impression it's the kind of place that's now contently cruising. The neighborhoods are all fresh and fun and feel like they've always been that way but there's plenty of space to introduce new things. Some, like the King Williams neighborhood, have massive historic homes of all kinds, everything from victorian to colonial. It seems like they would be the suburbs but then a few blocks over have neighborhood bars and are full of nightlife. Downtown is covered with detailed architecture and bright squares perfect for relaxing in. San Fernando Cathedral is in the heart of it and the even larger City Hall is right across the street. I felt like there wasn't a shortage of places to see or even revisit when I was wandering around the city. The food in San Antonio is mostly Mexican food and, believe me, I am certainly not complaining. The list I have for you all is small but delicious, I promise. Sanchos is worth mentioning here, their $2.75 happy hour frozen margaritas will make you never want to leave. I met a cool guy there, Scott, who showed me around some of the neighborhoods I otherwise would have missed. He was also one of a few people that told me about Garcia's. It's a small restaurant with cheap prices and exceptional food. As he says, it's a true San Antonio experience. The timing of my trip worked out perfectly, I was lucky enough to go to the Spurs' second game of their playoff series against the Memphis Grizzlies. That was an experience I will never forget, I loved seeing a whole new fanbase and discovering first hand what makes their stadium unique to the others I have been to. Their mascot is awesome. I have no idea why it is a coyote, but he controls that crowd like a champ. He walks out, puts one hand in the air and everyone goes silent. Thank goodness for cheap balcony seats or I would have missed out on that!
When I first got to San Antonio, I had a few hours to kill before I could check into the hostel. I started in Market Square and had lunch at Mi Tierra Cafe and Bakery. The square was bustling with people, street carts of paintings for sale, knick knacks, tourist gifts, and taco stands were everywhere. Colorful flag banners flapped in the breeze all across the few blocks and hung from one building to the next. I knew about Mi Tierra from my travel book and it sounded delicious. Honestly, I was starving at that point and would have eaten anything, I hadn't had breakfast and it was about one o'clock so my stomach was grumbling like crazy. I have learned that I can't spend money on three meals a day, which has worked out so far, so when I eat out I want to do it right. I've never seen such a busy restaurant before. The bakery counter took up most of the main room, the check in for the hostess at the back of it, and the ceiling was decorated with festive balloons in fitting with the theme. I waited thirty five minutes for a table for one, no, that was not a typo, and believe me when I tell you, I would have waited longer. That place was so fantastic. Everything down to their flour tortillas were worth coming back for. Very full and satisfied, I strolled through the rest of market square and headed back to Bertha and the hostel.
Similar to couch surfing, I've signed up for HelpX. It's a work exchange program also great for travelers. Another couch surfer I met along the way told me about it back in Bowling Green, Kentucky, and when I couldn't find a host for San Antonio I decided to give it a shot. The hostel was on the list of places and in exchange for a place to stay, I helped out for three hours per night there. Max, his adorable dogs and friendly cat have a good thing going. The woodwork he does on the side is insanely cool and the first floor is his shop and rec room for the hostel. Mentioning that I took woodworking last year in New York seemed less impressive all of a sudden seeing how great his stuff was. While there, I helped do some renovation work in the bathroom and paint a few shelves. Hopefully I helped make some progress, I certainly enjoyed being useful in the morning and having the afternoons and evenings to myself. I'm excited to maybe try it again and see what other hostels, farms, and families may need my help.
I'll never understand how people can travel somewhere new and barely leave the hostel/hotel. I find that a lot. Mostly it's people who do not have a car so don't try and go out, either that or they are just not interested. It was so beautiful outside Sunday that I didn't want to just sit around and be one of those people. Since it was later in the day and most places were closing soon, I decided to go see Brackenridge Park. This place is a must stop, if only to go to the Japanese Gardens. They're free and part of the park so it is open late, don't worry. I got there just before that golden hour of sunlight where it's coming up on the end of the day and the sun will be setting soon. It is so peaceful even without the perfect lighting that it's hard to capture it in a photo. The entrance sort of resembles a gazebo, is made of stone, and looks out over a perfectly landscaped scene. The water is more green than anything and is clear as can be, huge coy swimming in and out from under the vine covered bridges and walkways. In the background is a large wall of more vines and trees broken up by a small waterfall trickling into the pond. It honestly is one of those places where you audibly say "wow" when you arrive - it's hard not to. The rest of the park was covered with people since it was Easter Sunday. Music was blasting from every direction, children were running around chasing each other with their bikes, confetti and broken plastic eggs crunched with every step. The park not only is for baseball, family outings, etc., they also have a zoo and a unique amusement park called "Kiddie Park". It's small and some of the rides are a little creepy, like the school bus with a face on the front that needs to be pushed around the track to get going, but definitely a good time killer for parents. I tried to take pictures there without seeming like the only adult without a kid and had to time my shots just right.
The Alamo, I am sad to say, was a little disappointing. I am not really sure what I was expecting, something larger, I suppose. I got there and thought, "wait, where am I again?" If you're in San Antonio and you like history at all, you should go and form an opinion for yourself. It is kind of a big deal for Texas history and their revolution, even if the battle there was lost. The building is certainly beautiful on the outside, I particularly liked the plaque on the front door that says "be silent friend here heroes died to blaze a trail for other men." The area it's in is a little hokey, Ripley's Believe It Or Not is one of the storefronts across the street, for example. I avoided them but I did stop at Buckhorn Saloon. It's not only a saloon but also a taxidermy museum and had been described to me as "very Texas". I didn't go into the museum but I did have a quick beer while animal eyes stared at me from all sides. Although not part of the National Park, the Alamo is grouped in with the four Spanish Missions that are now part of the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park. There is Mission Concepcion, San Jose, San Juan, and Espada. They're beautiful, like nothing I've ever seen before, and somehow their grandeur is still not lost after all this time. Established in the 1700s, they were originally created by Catholic religious orders to spread Christianity among the natives. They weren't only Churches, they were also communities. Each one had its own church, farm, ranch and each Mission looks uniquely different from the last. Mission Espada, the last one off Mission Road was my favorite from the outside; simple, small and weathered. The largest and most striking I found to be Mission San Jose. The majority of it is still standing and the grounds and ruins make for exceptional photos. The best part about the missions are their details. Everything down to their entryways, window frames, and cacti is enticing. I made sure to take note of everything, snapping mental images left and right.
The river runs through some of downtown and is known as River Walk. This was my favorite area. It's a place where, if you only have one day in San Antonio, should be on the top of your list. I ended up taking a boat ride through it first to see everything and learn a bit more about it. Restaurants line each side of the river, bridges cross above every chance they get and beautiful flowers, waterfalls, and trees decorate the walkways. Every building and boat creates a colorful reflection. There are entrances all around in the form of spiral stairways and long ramps that lead you down to it. I loved walking under each new bridge; no detail was forgotten and each one is very different. One of my favorite sections was the Arneson River Theater. It's on the water, with an old stage backdrop and five bells, one to represent each flag of Texas. Across the small river is the seating. It climbs up, covered in grass and stone, and opens out into the historic village of La Villita. Just on the other side of the bridge next to the theater is a staircase I spent way too much time staring at. It was gorgeous though; floral tiles add to the wide steps that wind up to the opening of the same village and trees cover the top of the entrance. It looked as though it would be an entrance into a secret garden. Fun fact, one of my favorite scenes in Miss Congeniality was filmed on the theater stage. I'll let you go and figure out which one for yourself, though.
I loved that there was always something new to see in San Antonio. I feel like I could have spent a lot more time there and never gotten bored of it. I'll have to come back another time and see everything I missed. I think I covered most of it but I'm sure there are more neighborhoods and parts of the River Walk to explore.
On my way to Houston I stopped by one of the most beautiful churches I have ever been to. St. Mary's Catholic Church is in the small town of Schulenburg, half way between San Antonio and Houston, and is one of a kind. Well, technically, it is one of the four painted churches of Texas. It is nicknamed the Queen of the painted churches, I can see why. The details and floral designs are hand painted and not an inch was missed. I'm so glad I stopped to see it. Having been there, I can't imagine having skipped it.
Next stop, Houston and NASA! Talk soon!
- G.
The Photo:
The stairway to La Villita.
San Antonio, Texas.
4/17/17.
