Soulsville, U.S.A.
I've spent the last few days in Memphis with my Mom and we've done so much! It felt good to just sit back and relax last night. We've seen everything from Graceland to Gibson with some live music mixed in-between. The first two nights we stayed downtown right near Beale Street. The two block stretch is pedestrian only, lined with neon signs, and has music pouring out of it. The Rum Boogie Cafe was our favorite. The bar is covered with signatures of patrons on every inch of wall space, lamps, and floor, and the ceiling dotes an extensive collection of signed guitars. Memorabilia is everywhere and if the music is not to your liking, walk through the door to their other bar, the Juke Joint, where the vibe is blues and decor is the same. Our first night in Memphis we started with some great BBQ at Blues City Cafe and ended it with the McDaniels Band at the Juke Joint. Unlike the other music cities I've been to, Memphis is all about their blues and soul. The atmosphere is a mixture of Nashville and New Orleans. Of course, there is some Rock N' Roll, the King didn't call Memphis home for nothing. Even though Elvis was born in Tupelo, MS., his heart was in Memphis with his family at Graceland.
Before we jump into that, let me get back to why Soulsville, U.S.A. is such an appropriate title. Little tidbit about me, in case you didn't already know, I love Motown, funk, and soul. Motown originated in Detroit and believe me, Hitsville U.S.A. is on my list, but soul originated right here at Stax Records. Not fully realizing the scale of just how many artists came from here, I was immediately reminded in the introduction video. Started by a brother and sister, Jim Stewart and Estelle Axton, the duo brought in talent such as Isaac Hayes, Al Green, Carla Thomas, Sam & Dave, The Mar-Keys, The Bay-Kays (a personal favorite), Eddie Floyd, and of course, Otis Redding. Not going to lie, it made me a little teary eyed and overwhelmed just being there knowing how many had come before me and changed the world of music. The sibilings turned the old theater into a studio on their own and on a budget. At the time, Stewart didn't want to pay to have the floor leveled which ended up being a good thing. It contributed to the concert hall feel and sound of the studio and became an integral part of Stax's original sound. You know how you watch a classic movie or hear a song and you think, I wonder if they knew how influential they'd be? They didn't. Stax was it's own little world. Even at a time when racial tension was high and segregation ran rampant, Stax didn't care about that. White or black, it didn't matter. If you played music then you were all one inside that record shop and recording studio. The "You Know I've Got Soul" European tour in 1967 was when they realized the magnitude of their music. They arrived and they said it was like The Beatles coming to America. Until then, most of the artists didn't think their music even reached outside of Memphis. Finding it hard to all hang out together, black and white, in public without criticism, they would instead hang out at the Lorraine Motel. The Staple Singers, and I'm sure others, would run into to MLK a lot when he was in town and staying at the Lorraine. In 1968, Roebuck "Pops" Staples remembers Dr. King up on the balcony, shouting down to him on his way to Church; "He told me wanted me to sing him a song. That was the last time I talked to him". Ironically, the murder of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. at the Lorraine Motel would be the moment Stax was forever changed. The music lived on, but the assassination and other factors brought Stax to a close shortly after.
On the other side of town, Sun Studio was booming. The birthplace of Rock N' Roll was spearheaded by its pioneer, Sam Phillips. Originally the Memphis Recording Studio, Phillips would record anything and everything to make some money and get started with music. He recorded weddings, pageants, baseball games, anything. Finally, he made the switch to music. Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, B.B. King, Howlin' Wolf (who he said was his greatest discovery, even more than Elvis), and Jackie Brenston are just some of the artists who recorded at Sun Studio. If you don't know who Jackie Brenston is, he and the Delta Cats recorded the first Rock N' Roll song ever, "Rocket 88", in 1951. The small, slightly claustrophobic studio is still in operation at night and the recording room, other than a few tweaks here and there, hasn't been updated since Elvis was discovered there. The recording booth still has the same tiled and pitched roof. Marion Keisker worked at Sun Studio when Elvis walked through the front door. He sat down to meet with her and she asked him who he sounded like, to which he responded, "I don't sound like nobody." True story. The first song he recorded was "My Happiness" and Phillips wasn't impressed. He didn't love the 'pop' sound that Elvis had. After a year of Marion going on and on, he gave him a chance. Elvis was incredibly nervous during his first recording session. Noticing that, Sam told him to sing what he wanted to sing, not what he thought he wanted to him to hear. "That's Alright" was one of the songs that caught Sam's attention. Popular DJ "Daddy-O" Dewey Phillips played it on his radio show a few days later. It was so popular, he played it twenty times in that three hour show. Elvis went on to be known as 'The King of Rock N' Roll' and Sun Studio continued to churn out chart toppers. Ask anyone and they will tell you that selling Elvis' contract to RCA for $35,000 was the biggest mistake Sam Phillips ever made. Ask Sam, and he'll say the exact opposite. He paid off the debts of the studio, stayed close with Elvis, and got to keep pushing out music. Fun Fact, Johnny Cash recorded "I Walk The Line" right there in that small studio.
Give yourselves more than three days to see Memphis, if you can. There's so much to eat and so much to see. Definitely try Gus' Fried Chicken and make sure you go to the Peabody Hotel to see the ducks! The tradition dates back to the 1930s and boy, is it cute. I don't know how they choose which ducks have the honor of being there but everyday at 11am the ducks take the elevator with the Duckmaster down from their penthouse suite to the main lobby where hundreds of people are waiting patiently. They waddle down the short red carpet right into the fountain in the middle of the Grand Ballroom where they are served breakfast on silver platters. The chandeliers and beautifully painted ceiling detailed with ducks make the whole thing feel very regal. The National Medal Museum is also a noteworthy stop and you don't have to go in, you can take a stroll around the garden and see the many metal sculptures like we did. Be sure to check out the intricate metal gates and take in the beautiful view of the bridges and the Mississippi River while you're there as well. Arkansas is actually just on the other side of the River. When you drive, or walk, across the bridge you cross right over the state line in the middle of the Mississippi. The "Welcome to Arkansas" sign hangs halfway across the bridge.
We decided to stay at the Guest House at Graceland our last night and went to Graceland Friday afternoon. That was spectacular. Even though it's a large home, from the street it looks so modest and simple; then you notice the musical notes on the front gates. With audio/tablet tour guides we strolled through the residence of Elvis Presley. Attention to detail was key in decoration, right down to the pink poodle wallpaper in his mother's closet. The living room boasted peacock stained glass, the TV room was brightly painted blue and yellow with a full mirror ceiling and the TCB lightning bolt on the wall. The pool room, my favorite room, was all fabric. The dimly lit room had a pleated ceiling that stretched down the walls and matched the sofa in the corner. The famous Jungle room really does have a small fountain in it and the green shag carpet is on the ceiling as well for sound purposes. The stable outside still has some, but use to have up to twelve horses in it. Elvis loved to ride and when he went riding it was a big event at Graceland. Since everyone wanted to go, he made sure there were enough horses for everyone to join him. Twelve horses, multiple Roles Royce's, a pink Cadillac and a lavishly decorated home all seem like a lot, but walking through Graceland it never felt excessive. The vibe was more cool than anything, like it suited him. Seeing the interviews of him and hearing stories from Lisa Marie, I got the impression that he was a humble person who loved performing and loved to sing; that was really all he wanted to do. When asked in his post army interview if he had any intent to leave Memphis and Graceland, he responded, "no sir, I have no plans to leave Memphis and I plan to keep Graceland as long as I possibly can." He never did leave Memphis, he is buried at Graceland with a few other family members, his grave decorated with teddy bears and notes left for him by fans.
Memphis is one of those places with so much music history it's hard to remember it all. I must say, I think I did a pretty good job. Thank you, thank you very much. Experiencing Memphis with my mom was such a wonderful bonus! What a fantastic three day vacation from a much longer journey. Love you! See you in Santa Fe!
Onto the next state - Arkansas.
- G.
The Photo:
Doors to the Heartbreak Hotel.
Rock Walk in Memphis, TN.
3/17/17.
